In the spring of 2010 I walked from Le-Puy-en-Velay to Pamplona.
Starting in late January of 2011 I resumed from Pamplona and walked to Santiago de Compostela.
All up, I took considerably more than a hundred days.
I’m slow!
In the spring of 2010 I walked from Le-Puy-en-Velay to Pamplona.
Starting in late January of 2011 I resumed from Pamplona and walked to Santiago de Compostela.
All up, I took considerably more than a hundred days.
I’m slow!
Is there a post in here that compares and contrasts the routes in France and Spain? If it’s not yet written, is there any way to entice you to write it?
I have so fully enjoyed your accounts of this journey. Your photos are FANTASTIC. What an eye you have! Gracias, merci, thank you. – Nancy
Nancy, thank you for reading and for all the kind words. I suppose comparisons are a risky affair in that they can easily become an indirect form of complaint. Nonetheless, your proposal seems to be a very worthwhile one. Perhaps I could run a comment thread under one of the existing posts so people can talk back frankly. The Chemin du Puy was my first Camino, and, I must say, it remains special.
You’ve got me thinking now!
Did you stay at any chambre d’hote in France? I’m wondering if these count as private accommodations and what the average price is for such a thing. Any insights? Thanks! -Nancy
Nancy, the key for me was to have a little time each day to negotiate accommodation suggested in the Miam Miam Dodo guide. (I’d definitely buy one of these, new and up to date, in Le Puy.) Even in some albergues it was possible to negotiate an individual room for a modest price. I stayed in some fine B&B’s where I got everything for around 40 euros or less, and I got rooms in bars etc for around the 25 euro mark. Some albergues were deserted in the off-season, so I got individual sleeping in large dorms for under 10 euros. As I’ve said elsewhere, the key to getting on in France is formality, not the French language, but if you have the language, so much the better. One can ask for, and get, unreasonable things, if one goes through the right hoops of “politesse”. So many Anglos who complain of French rudeness don’t seem to realise that they were rude first. (You might already know all this, of course.)
I doubt that prices have gone up much. After funding the Great Greek Holiday, the Irish Miracle, the Spanish Wind Revolution etc, the French are taking what euros they can get. So if you ask for a modest price in the off-season, you’ll often get it.
In France, you can nearly always ring ahead and book long in advance. Since the Chemin du Puy is part of the popular GR65, things are sometimes booked out for weekends, Paris school hols etc, even in a quiet period for pilgrims. So phoning is often advised.
But, hey, the GR65 is popular for good reasons!
Thanks for the info! I will gladly scatter some euros around France. I plan to learn some French before I go, so I can endear myself to the local people – or at least give them something to laugh at!
When I walked the Camino in Spain in 2007 I stayed mostly in pensions. My budget was a bit heartier then, so I’ll have to downgrade most nights.
Your blog has given me a really good sense of the route in France, and I am quite eager to see it for myself. Thank you again!
Hi! My husband and I are planning a very short camino, our first. We only have 5 days walking time and I’m feeling the pressure to choose the most scenic and best route. While we come from the Philippines, my father is from Pamplona, and so I am very familiar with Pamplona and Puente la Reina, and nearby towns. At first, I was thinking of selecting a distance of 150km from Santiago de Compostela, then thought it may be better to start at St. Jean Pied de Port for a day’s walk to Roncesvalles, then take a train to maybe Sarria, and resume from there? Confused but excited, loved your blog and hope you could be of help!
Hi Javmar and hubby.
I suppose much depends on time of year. One can sometimes be delayed by weather at Roncesvalles, but even the safer “low” route through Valcarlos, which I took, is pretty scenic. I’m often surprised that people feel legitimised by going via the pass, when such an agreeable option is available in bad weather.
As you’ll know from reading my blog, I don’t care much about covering a lot of ground or meeting deadlines etc. Sarria to Santiago in five days would be a big enough challenge for me, especially in warm weather. If you weren’t fussed about getting a certificate at the end of the five days, you could always just spend the time strolling through the Bierzo, my favourite region. The people are just the best, somehow a little proud and French, in a good way.
Really, if there’s tension or complication or suffering, I have no expertise! On the other hand, I’ve met many fine folk along the Way who aren’t like me at all, and thrive on a big challenge. I do get the impression, however, that the plan of doing Roncesvalles then trying to “complete” from Sarria, is a bit too elaborate when you’ve only got five days.
Anyway, it’s a good sign that you’re confused and excited. If you have any further thoughts or questions, you could put them in the sticky post at the very top of my blog where others are more likely to see them. We might get a good discussion going with some experienced pilgrims.
Not only are you excited, I am excited for both of you. Hard or easy, it’s going to be a great five days in your lives.
Rob
Hi there! Have really been enjoying your posts and photos. My husband and I are planning to walk from Le Puy to Santiago in a few months. Could I ask when in April did you start from LePuy? Would it matter much starting in early vs late April as far as snow and weather goes? Just curious! Thanks for your help and your blog!
Hi, and thanks for dropping in. I walked out of Le Puy on the 25th of March. Weather was harsh, as you can see from my photos, and I’m told it can even be harsher. Really, though, if you stay dry and take a safe road route when the GR65 is under snow and whited out, you should be okay. Someone told me I missed a great experience by not descending from Nasbinals along the GR in blizzard conditions. I feel that person missed the much greater experience of walking down a freshly cleared road and enjoying the scenery. I’m so glad the restaurateur in Nasbinals gave me the advice to do the safe thing. What do people achieve by getting cold, wet, exhausted…and even dead? Am I missing something?
The Aubrac Plateau at the start of the Chemin du Puy is very special. The thought of you guys being there soon and then going all the way to Santiago gets me excited. Let me know how it goes.
Bon Chemin
Rob