Conques means “shell”. The town clings to one side of a rough, sheltered gorge of a tributary of the Lot. It started with hermits seeking privacy, and the spot bears no resemblance to the wide Aveyron landscape so familiar to the pilgrim to this point, and after, for that matter. The valley, just on the [...]
Archive for the ‘C. TOWARD CONQUES’ Category
BUT…WE CAME HERE FOR PRIVACY!
Posted in C. TOWARD CONQUES, Uncategorized on June 23, 2010 | 2 Comments »
MY FAVOURITE RACKET
Posted in C. TOWARD CONQUES, Uncategorized on June 23, 2010 | 2 Comments »
None of it is really above board… Here, dominating the village of Conques, is the abbey church of Sainte-Foye. And here’s the abbey accommodation, where, like countless pilgrims before me, I dined in a great hall with monks and hospitaliers, and stayed two nights. (I’m a rest-day kind of guy.) Conques is professional. The prémontrés, [...]
TO THE GOLDEN ROSE
Posted in C. TOWARD CONQUES, Uncategorized on June 22, 2010 | Leave a Comment »
A professional glass artist in Siena tells me of a prohibitively expensive glass he was once able to use for his only major local commission, a window in the Church of San Cristoforo. The glass is called Golden Rose, and it’s a red so soft it can’t be called red, isn’t pink, but certainly doesn’t [...]
COLDER IN SENERGUES
Posted in C. TOWARD CONQUES, Uncategorized on June 21, 2010 | 3 Comments »
Conques is two days away and there’s a tickle of impatience, as if it represents some kind of graduation or super-stage of the Camino. Dawdler, just enjoy the Aveyron, wide, green and handsome! Signs of spring, these grape hyacinths with their shy fragrance have to be cultivated in my part of Australia. Here they are [...]
COLD IN GOLINHAC
Posted in C. TOWARD CONQUES, Uncategorized on June 21, 2010 | Leave a Comment »
A level walk out of Estaing, following the here tranquil Lot: But there are steep climbs and cold weather ahead. This stage presents panoramas, especially of the massif to the north. Day’s end was at Golinhac, where demi-pension entitled me to dormitory accommodation but also a complete restaurant dinner with new friends. And more panoramas [...]
ESTAING: FAMILY VALUES.
Posted in C. TOWARD CONQUES, Uncategorized on June 21, 2010 | Leave a Comment »
The trail to Estaing snakes through typically lush Aveyron country with the odd ancient church or hamlet. The level walking is over. But the village of Estaing, like Saint-Côme and Saint-Chély, is consistently voted as one of France’s most beautiful. It’s worth the trudge. The castle and town were the seat of a famous family, [...]
MON REPOS
Posted in C. TOWARD CONQUES, Uncategorized on June 21, 2010 | Leave a Comment »
Espalion on that Saturday was buzzing. Shops were many and open till late. Here was the dawdler’s chance for some serious idling and over-eating! My luck with shared accommodation continued. The municipal gîte was spotless, well appointed, and very well managed by a lady from the mairie. I had a room to myself, for both [...]
ESPALION, AND A DECLARATION
Posted in C. TOWARD CONQUES, Uncategorized on June 21, 2010 | Leave a Comment »
So, an easy stroll along the Lot River for an hour or so… …soon a built-up area that had a distinct feel of suburbia: newer homes, businesses, light industry, playing fields. A Parisian encountered later complained about this violation of heritage. I loved it. A little brash development was a nice change, and Espalion’s development [...]
THE AVEYRON
Posted in C. TOWARD CONQUES, Uncategorized on June 20, 2010 | 7 Comments »
Did not want to leave Saint-Chély. Who wants to leave a kitchen hutch this good? In fact, it was our host who left first next morning. He explained that he needed to get to the hospital for his regular therapy. Jean-Claude is very open about a serious medical condition, so I don’t baulk at mentioning [...]
