Here the French way ends; and here many, for whom the Camino is a Spanish experience, start their pilgrimage. Maybe the nearby and older site of Saint-Jean-le Vieux was thought less strategic after Richard the Lionheart demolished its fort. (Yes, another English king with claims over south-west France. And Richard, like so many boys from [...]
Archive for the ‘I. THE BASQUE COUNTRY’ Category
STILL A PILGRIM
Posted in I. THE BASQUE COUNTRY, Uncategorized, tagged Charles the Bad of Navarre, Richard the Lionheart, Saint-Jean-le-Vieux, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on July 8, 2010 | 4 Comments »
END OF THE FRENCH WAY. SQUELCH.
Posted in I. THE BASQUE COUNTRY, Uncategorized, tagged Charlemagne, James the Apostle, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Voie du Puy on July 7, 2010 | Leave a Comment »
I had one day of walking to get to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, and there was a tickle of expectation. At that town, I would complete the Via Podiensis, the Voie Du Puy, the Camino in France. Whether I went further was to be decided. There’s an advantage in getting the Pyrenees “done” and crossing into Spain: one [...]
TO LARCEVEAU VIA PILGRIMVILLE
Posted in I. THE BASQUE COUNTRY, Uncategorized, tagged Ostabat, Pays Basque on July 6, 2010 | 3 Comments »
The transition from Béarn to Pays Basque is sudden and dramatic…just how you want it on the Camino. Steep green country and lofty conifers: it’s not surprising that a certain Kiwi friend found a bit of home in the Pays Basque. And I’m told there are a few of these over the Tasman, in Middle [...]
BASQUE POSTCARDS. AND THE KNOCK OF GRATITUDE.
Posted in I. THE BASQUE COUNTRY, Uncategorized, tagged French pilgrims, Larceveau, piperade, Uhart-Mixe on July 5, 2010 | Leave a Comment »
It’s raining, you’re not so young, not so rich. But you’re walking through and past the things you’ve only seen in the books people leave on coffee tables. Right now. It’s officially the Pays Basque… … and you’re walking past châteaux… . …past sheep grazing in fat meadows… …past curly-horned cattle on plush slopes, by [...]
BASQUE COUNTRY, BASQUE RAIN
Posted in I. THE BASQUE COUNTRY, Uncategorized, tagged andouille sausage, Basque Country, Béarn des Gaves, Lichos on July 5, 2010 | 2 Comments »
The departure from Navarrenx takes one over its famous bridge. This part of the Béarn is the Béarn des Gaves, the last word meaning “torrents”. There are plenty of them and they usually bolt along. The day was spent dodging the rain so common near the Pyrenees. But there was plenty to charm: A cute [...]
