Did not want to leave Saint-Chély. Who wants to leave a kitchen hutch this good?
In fact, it was our host who left first next morning. He explained that he needed to get to the hospital for his regular therapy. Jean-Claude is very open about a serious medical condition, so I don’t baulk at mentioning it here. The man doesn’t just bear his load, he relishes giving every comfort to pilgrims, many of whom have nothing more serious than a blister. (I should add that the restoration of the tower, performed in a matter of months, must have been very costly yet the price of staying at the Tour des Chapelains is modest.)
Jean-Claude and Christine Brunier are ultreia people. I can’t put it better than that.
***
So it’s off into the Aveyron, with its lauze roofs…
…and wide green perspectives.
“A land of streams! some, like a downward smoke…”
***
Day’s end brought me to Saint-Côme-d’Olt, Olt being the old name for the Lot, a river one sees and crosses at a number of points.
The village is famous for its beauty, yet it affected me less than others, perhaps because I stayed outside the old part. Everyone likes to photograph the unique twisty church tower, so I thought I’d take a snap of the tympan and lower level, so lovely and crumbly. I’m a medieval kind of guy.
***
Next day a sign on the trail offered an easy stroll along the Lot to Espalion as an alternative to a strenuous but rewarding climb along the GR65. I summoned up every grain and drop of Australian manhood in my being, steeled every fibre and sinew…
Then took the flat easy way along the Lot.
Aveyron holds a very special place in my heart: I thought it was a beautiful region. I laughed out loud at your decision-making to take the low road…. I remember making the same decision. And the low road was a beautiful one, so close beside the river.
And we only saw the north of the Aveyron. I’ve promised myself a ramble through the Roquefort country one day.
I promise that, next time I pass from Saint-Come to Espalion, I’ll take a lighter pack, train up specially, leave early…
And take the flat easy way along the river.
That’s exactly my kind of training and decision making. I can see we have a lot in common!
Actually, on reflection, I thought of a way that a Slow Camino kind of Aussie could do things even more slowly, and make use of all that special training…. You could walk the high road AND the low road…on different days of course……
Just the low road thanks! Wait till you see the flat road I took out of Moissac…after a rest day, of course.
Yep….. I know exactly which flat road you mean out of Moissac! Those with two sticks in hand walked sturdily uphill, whilst I, I chose the low road….
I meant to take the low road, not being a martyr. But then I didn’t pay enough attention and followed the way marks and ended up very high up beside a giant Virgin. The view was lovely, but considering that there are a lot of lovely views on the route, I’m with you–it’s not worth the climb.