Getting out of Logroño is a bit troublesome, since waymarking often dies away in such urbanisations and is replaced by proud road shields announcing the Camino as patrimony rather than indicating exact direction.
But a real delight awaits the pilgrim emerging from the city: the Park of the Grajera, with a very long promenade between hills and flanked in parts by wetland. The locals themselves use it heavily for strolls, biking, running. In another part of the complex is a very large golf course, and there are also other recreation and refeshment facilities.
The ducks love the Grajera, and so do I. Every town should have this.
And in case you forget that it’s a Spanish park…
A short stage to Navarrete, to help me recover from rosquilla overdose.
Bleak hills, skeletal trees and bare vines along the way.
On the outskirts of Navarrete, yet another reminder of the scale of pilgrimage in past times: the remains of the Hospital and Albergue of St. John d’Acre. (To the bubble writer who defaced this monument, let me say that you have indeed achieved a kind of immortality…as a wanker.)
Close to here was fought that famous battle of the Hundred Years War, when The Black Prince and John of Gaunt, allied with Pedro the Cruel, defeated the French-Castilian army commanded by the illustrious Du Guesclin, who was too smart to be confident of the win, but had to fight. It was a typical battle and victory of the era: expensive and pointless.
Navarrete has a few handsome features. I liked this arcade…but I’m biased when it comes to arcades and cloisters.